As I said before, applying the 1.0.1 updater to Olympus Viewer stops it working. A pity because it claims to solve 1 annoying bug, which is that converted RAW files are saved without colour profiles. I haven't tried it on my Powerbook yet. The announced 1.1 updater does not yet appear to have arrived.
Apart from a mysterious "High Speed / High Function" RAW development engine tradeoff in Studio (the manual has little to say about it, despite being 292 pages long), it seems that unless you want edit tools and camera control, and find RAW batch processing useful, Studio has little to offer over Viewer. In any case, they're both quite clearly version 1.0. Whilst they offer a lot of interesting functionality, they're both clunky and slow, especially in RAW conversion. Roll on the E-1 updated to Photoshop CS.
The RAW developer is especially annoying. Whilst files can be saved using the same file name as the RAW (with the appropriate filetype, so it doesn't overwrite anything), or saved using a rule-based formula, you can't, believe it or not, enter your own filename. Secondly, the type always defaults to Exif-JPEG. Finally (so far), if you ask it to open the converted file in Photoshop, if Photoshop is already open, Viewer crashes - after saving the file, fortunately.
But... the results are pretty good. At 240dpi I get more less full A4 (using no margins on Epson 2100). Images straight "out of the box", capture and output sharpened using Pixel Genius PhotoKit Sharpener and printed using ColorByte ImagePrint are pretty impressive. No tweaking, no optimising. Next step is to go to A3.
I think that Josh Anon's Lightbox software is worth investigating too, certainly for organising all the various derivatives of the RAW files. I daresay that will be the topic of a future post.
The blue sky was very transitory...
The photo was taken handheld, at 100ASA, 54mm, 1/250th, F9, using ESP metering. The metering coped pretty well.
I'll post some photos soon, when I decide how I'm going to organise it. But my first impressions are very good. First of all, I'm relieved to report that I like the 4/3 framing. I expected to, having taken to 6x7 very quickly, but you never no. Next point, this camera just works. The learning curve, even when coming from manual focus Canon SLRs, is practically non-existent. Most controls work on the "press a button and rotate a dial basis", with the added feature that you have two dials to choose from. So far I've only discovered one mode where the two dials do different things, which is setting aperture and speed in M mode. The comment that the buttons seem to be randomly spread all over the camera has some justification, but you soon get used to it. I found that the DOF preview button didn't immediately fall to hand, but again, after a few minutes it became second nature.
The viewfinder is superb. It does not feel at all restrictive. I don't know quite why, because it clearly is much smaller than the one on my T90 for example, but it isn't noticeable. However, I think investing in the eye cup might improve things even more.
On the menu front, well again it is easy to use, but I should say that I have been using an Olympus C4040Z for the past two years, and the logic is similar. One thing which I haven't seen reported anywhere is that the Info mode "remembers" its last setting. So, if you choose histogram view (requiring click Play, press and hold Info, rotate dial) the exit, the next time you click Play then Info, you get the histogram. Not quite such a pain in the neck as some have suggested. I guess a single button press, like on other DSLRs, would be nice, but this is hardly awkward.
One thing I haven't taken much notice of yet is changing the default settings. Apart from changing the colour space to Adobe RGB I've left it all as it is. I may well be wrong but so far I assume that all of this stuff is relevant only to processed images, not RAW. Still, as I've using RAW + JPEG, I will probably tweak the settings so that it produces JPEGs as I want them.
For some shots I used my tripod, with the Acratech ball head. I used a Really Right Stuff plate - model ..., which I bought for the T90. It isn't ideal as the curved base of the E-1 body doesn't fit very well. Really Right Stuff claim to have released an E-1 specific plate, but when you try to order it, a different, generic (and cheaper) plate ends up in the shopping basket. I'll call them tonight to clarify this.