Madeira was a long-standing fascination for me, but I never really new why. After finally visiting for the first (and second) time in 2019, I now know. The dramatic landscape criss-crossed by epic artificial water channels - the "levadas" - hand carved out of vertical precipices and disappearing into mysterious tunnels is like no other. It isn't easy to capture the feelings that exploring the levadas gives in a photograph, but here is my attempt so far. And Madeira has plenty more to offer. I'm amazed that it isn't up there with Iceland as an over-exploited destination. but I'm relieved it isn't.